This week has been a 145-mile, all-weather trek along the pastoral surf-town coast of Cantabria.

I used to think there was just one Camino -- a yellow-arrow path that everyone followed, more or less the same. But out here on the Norte, I've discovered there are many: yellow, red, even green arrows. Some routes hug the perilous coast, others climb inland. Some are meant to avoid traffic or weather. There are shortcuts, longer scenic detours, muddy goat paths. I've taken a few by accident and a few by choice.